By Stan Brown
This day trip will take you from Prescott to Seligman on the Williamson Valley Road, and is being presented in three parts. We pick up this week, Part 2, on our day trip with historical spots along Williamson Valley Road beginning at milepost 20.6.
At milepost 20.6 is the Crossroads Ranch development on the right. This area was originally known as "the crossing" where stage, wagon trains and freight wagons crossed the wash on the route between Prescott and Hardyville (now Bullhead City). There are several things to note in this area. Dillon Wash (aka Williamson Valley Wash) was named for the John Dillon family who had a house in the settlement of Simmons. The large trees on your left, 100 yards or so in from the road, was the location of this small settlement and stage stop named for John A. Simmons, who settled here in 1880. Back in October 1873, a post office was established here named "Williamson," with post- mistress Betsy Zimmerman. Mrs. Zimmerman was known in Prescott for her butter, dairy products and vegetables she would bring to town to sell. On Jan. 24, 1875, the name of the post office was changed to "Wilson," with William J. Simmons as postmaster. On July 5, 1881, the name was again changed, this time to "Simmons." The post office closed in 1931, but the town name is still seen on many local maps, including the Prescott National Forest map. The ruins of the stage stop here are now on private property. Williamson Valley Road is sometimes referred to as Simmons Highway.
This area is actually Williamson Valley. The road by that name only now officially comes into that valley. The gravel road heading northeast here at Simmons goes a short distance to Matli. Joe and Emma Matli arrived in July 1900 and soon took over the Bianconi Ranch where Joe had worked for a while. The five Matli sons were well known for their rodeo performances, and the Matli family established a large dairy ranch. The windmill over the well at the Sharlot Hall Museum is from the Matli ranch and is on the National Register of Historic Places.
At milepost 22.1, the Camp Wood Road branches off to the left. It is Forest Road 21, County Road 68. (Don't turn here; just observe the historical significance.) About 14 miles west on this gravel road is Camp Wood, an early stage stop and later a forest ranger station and Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) camp in the 1930s. Several ranches that pride themselves in old-fashioned cowboy methods are located along this side road. The area is overlooked by a fire lookout tower on top of 7,272-foot Hyde Mountain just a few miles northwest of Camp Wood in the Santa Maria Mountains.
Remaining on Williamson Valley Road (County Road 5), the road at this junction turns to well-maintained gravel for the remainder of the trip to Seligman. As you drive, look to the left (west) and you will see Hyde Mountain and, with binoculars, you can see the fire lookout.
At milepost 31, you enter Prescott National Forest. From Prescott to this point you have been traveling on private or state land. At milepost 35 you will enter a small section of private land where there are several ranches. At milepost 35.8 you will come to a one-lane steel truss bridge over Walnut Creek. Park here for a bit and absorb the history. This bridge has historic roots in the San Carlos Indian Reservation where, in 1912, it was part of a seven-span bridge over the Gila River. By 1916, several floods had taken their toll and the long bridge was no longer usable, the approaches having been washed out. The state highway department later took over the spans and sent most of them to various places for reuse. It was 1936 when this span was moved to this location over Walnut Creek. From a Days Past article titled "The Bridges of Yavapai County" by this author, "An old concrete bridge owned by the Forest Service was torn out and the steel truss placed over a new easement just downstream. Yavapai County took the lead in constructing the approaches and securing the easements from local ranchers. In December 1940, the road was designated as a county highway, maintained by the county. However, since this was also a forest road, both entities shared the inspection and maintenance of the bridge. Which government, state or county had actual jurisdiction was unclear. In 1976, the Forest Service requested the bridge be transferred to the county but it was almost 1990 before the red tape and apathy were cleared away and the transfer made. In 1990 Yavapai County secured and renovated the 77-year-old span."
Take a short walk upstream to the location of the present dam where the original concrete bridge crossed the creek.
Next week, in Part 3, we will explore this area further and continue our trip to Seligman.
Days Past articles are available at sharlothallmuseum.org/library&archives/history/dayspast. The public is encouraged to submit articles for Days Past consideration. Please contact Scott Anderson at 445-3122 for information.